learn how to empty a swimming pool safely

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by Bill Nash
®UGlassIt Pool Resurfacing, Inc.

*How to Empty a Fiberglass,
Gunite, or Concrete Swimming Pool Guide

Every swimming pool built or manufactured must, at one time or another, be emptied for repair or resurfacing. There is no such thing as a pool that will never need to be drained, regardless of what you may have been led to believe.

With this in mind, almost every type pool listed above has some method of relieving the underground water pressure. This is a safety feature built into pools to prevent the hydrostatic pressure caused by underground water from damaging the swimming pool. We are talking about serious damage, so please take heed to the precautions I've listed.

Because fiberglass pools weigh the least, as compared to concrete or gunite, the danger of lifting is greater. In my 15 years in this industry, I’ve never had a fiberglass pool lift, however two gunite pools did "pop". So the possibility certainly exists. Use this information as a guide in an effort to prevent this problem.

Never empty a fiberglass pool during the rainy season unless the pool has a built-in system for relieving the underground water pressure (which most do). If you have standing ground water hours after it rains anytime during the year, there is a strong possibility that any pool (gunite or fiberglass) will lift.

Hydrostatic Relief Valves

If your concrete or gunite pool has hydrostatic relief valves (usually located near the bottom of the steep slope), remove them as soon as you can get to them while emptying the pool. If you have an operating bottom drain, remove the cover and see if it has a hydrostatic relief valve (almost all do), unscrew and remove the valve as soon as the pool is drained.

The last foot or so of water probably won't drain out, so be ready with a sump pump to immediately place at the drain to remove the remaining water. This is extremely important, and must be done quickly, so the bottom drain can be accessed for removal of the cover.

Explanation of Swimming Pool Relief Valves

There are three types of relief valves:

  1. Installed Automatic Hydrostatic Relief Valves

  2. Installed Removable Relief Valves

  3. New Relief Valves for Installation

Automatic relief valves are usually beneath the drain cover and were installed when the pool was built. Occasionally, they are installed by the pool owner sometime after the pool was completed. In this instance, it may be installed on the steep slope or on the bottom at the deep end. More often than not, they do not work without assistance. Time and climatic conditions are the source of the problem. The high tech solution which I favor is a whack with the handle of a screwdriver. If that doesn't do it, hit it again. Invariably, it will perform perfectly, after a little human kindness.

Installed removable relief valves were either installed when the drain was manufactured, or later, on the surface, by the pool owner. These always work, but always need to be opened manually. If it is original equipment and under the drain cover, the valve cover can be pulled out after removing two screws. The removable relief valves on the surface are even easier to operate. Just unscrew the recessed cap and the ground water will flow into the pool where it can be later pumped out.

New relief valves can be installed when necessary. We keep these in stock and they are available for our customers use. We provide the necessary instructions for installation.

Stand Pipe (fiberglass pools)

Many pools had a water problem during construction and, to the current owners good fortune, have an inconspicuous "stand-pipe" located 2' to 30' from the pool. The pipe is less than a foot high and may or may not have a cap. Place a long hose into the pipe, then attach the hose to a utility pump and drain the underground water. They can be located near the diving board, near the pump and filter, or anywhere else on the property.

Quite often, a stand pipe equivalent was used when the pool was built, and a high water table was encountered. You may have a piece of black PVC emerging from the ground at the edge of the concrete deck, in the grass. It should be slightly lower than the top of the deck and usually goes unnoticed. This PVC goes directly into a 4' by 4' pit filled with stone, and it's 4' deep.. This PVC serves the same function as a stand-pipe, and should be used as explained above.

Well Points

If you’re in a beach area or other low lying area, you may need to consider “well points”, but this is a last resort and is rarely necessary under other conditions. When well points are necessary, they should be installed by an experienced pool or landscaping contractor. Some pools require well points only on one side or end, while others must have well points around the entire pool.

These are general guidelines and are intended for informational purposes for private, residential pools only. The user shall assume all risks.

*This article may be reprinted in its entirety with no omissions and with full credit to the author.

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Pool Resurfacing, Inc.
67 Buck Road
Suite 140 Box B-43
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006
800-676-8528

Fiberglass resurfacing products for gunite, plaster, and concrete swimming pools plus gelcoat paint for fiberglass swimming pools now available in the US, Mexico, and the Caribbean!


All material Copyright © 1999-2006 UGlassIt Pool Resurfacing, Inc. UGlassIt® is a registered trademark of UGlassIt Pool Resurfacing, Inc. "Pool Resurfacing Made Easy" is a publication protected by copyright law. All rights reserved. All copyright and trademark violations will be prosecuted to maximum extent allowed under the law.

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Page last updated on Thursday, August 21, 2008